Four methods, explained honestly.
Every method has a place. The right one for you depends on your hair’s density, your lifestyle and how you like to style. Here is how each one works, how long it takes, how long it lasts, and what I really think about it.
Side by side.
| Method | Install | Lasts | Removal | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Micro Bead | 1.5 – 2.5 hrs | 3 – 4 months | 20 – 30 min | Most hair types; clients who want to reuse their hair and avoid glue or heat. |
| Fusion | 2 – 3 hrs | 3 – 4 months | 30 – 45 min | Maximum movement and the most natural blend; zero maintenance between sets. |
| Tape-Ins | 30 – 60 min | Up to 2 months | Re-taped at maintenance | Quick installs, fine hair, and anyone who wants a lighter-feeling set. |
| Hand Tied | 1.5 – 2 hrs | 4 – 6 weeks | Quick and gentle | Adding thickness fast; clients who want a gentle, braid-free weft. |
Times are typical for a full head and vary with how much hair you need and how thick your natural hair is. Standard removals are free.
Micro bead placement, strand by strand. The beads sit flat at the root and disappear under your own hair.
Micro Bead method
- Install time
- 1.5 – 2.5 hrs
- Lasts
- 3 – 4 months
- Removal
- 20 – 30 min
Micro bead extensions, also known as micro link extensions, are a strand-by-strand method using small copper beads clamped onto your natural hair. A crochet hook loaded with a bead is slid up to the root, an extension strand is placed inside the bead, and the bead is clamped flat to lock it in place. Done properly, the result is natural and undetectable to the eye, and hiding the strands is something I am a master at.
A full head takes 1.5 to 2.5 hours and lasts 3 to 4 months. I ask clients to come back once the beads have grown about an inch from the scalp.
My preferred beads are Euro Loc, because their hold is more secure than anything else I’ve used over the years. There are many beads on the market and we can talk through your preferences at your free consultation.
Removal takes 20 to 30 minutes. If you’re reusing your hair, I may re-tip or re-form the strands so they slide back into the beads easily.
Questions about micro bead extensions
How do I wash my hair with micro beads?
Like normal, in the shower. Avoid washing upside down in the sink, which can tangle the extensions. Shampoo and conditioner on the beads is fine; I secure them so well it won’t affect the hold. Wash every two to three days to keep the extension hair from drying out.
Can I use flat irons and blow dryers?
Yes, just be careful not to hit the beads with heat or point the blow dryer directly at them.
How long does the application take?
Most clients are 1.5 to 2 hours; some take up to three depending on how much hair is needed and how thick your natural hair is. I’ve been doing this a long time, so I’m fast.
Do micro beads damage hair?
Damage comes down to who puts them in, who takes them out, how you care for them, and the quality of hair applied. I handle the first two and teach you the third. The fourth is why I only supply premium hair.
Can I color my hair while wearing them?
Yes. Color does not affect the beads.
Keratin fusion strands. The bond is the size of a grain of rice and shaped flat to your hair.
Fusion method
- Install time
- 2 – 3 hrs
- Lasts
- 3 – 4 months
- Removal
- 30 – 45 min
Fusion is the most popular technique in the industry, and where hair extensions began. Each strand is attached with a small keratin protein bond that is melted and shaped around your natural hair. Because our own hair is made of keratin and protein, the bond is non-damaging. The result blends completely with your natural hair and is undetectable.
A full head takes 2 to 3 hours and lasts 3 to 4 months, depending on how fast your hair grows. Once the bonds have grown about an inch from the scalp, it’s time for a new set. In between, there is no maintenance required. Treat the extensions like your own hair and enjoy them.
Remember that extension hair isn’t attached to your scalp, so it needs to be fed with moisturizing products. I’ll recommend what to use during your appointment. Once a month I suggest a clarifying treatment followed by coating your hair in raw organic coconut oil overnight. It’s fabulous for your own hair and for the health of the extensions.
Quality hair that has been cared for can be reused. I cut off the old keratin tip, add a new one, and reapply the strand as if it were new. I’m one of the few stylists in the area willing to offer this because it’s tedious work, but I like to save my clients as much money as possible.
Questions about fusion extensions
How do I wash my hair with keratin bonds?
Like normal, in the shower. Conditioner on the bonds is fine; I use only the best keratin so the bond won’t break down from washing. Wash every two to three days (twice a week is ideal).
Can I use heat tools?
Yes. Just don’t direct heat straight onto the bonds.
How long does the application take?
Usually 2 to 3 hours. Clients who need more hair or have very thick natural hair can take up to five.
What if I keep my extensions in too long?
If the bonds grow out more than an inch, the new growth can mat or “dread up” because it’s hard to brush. Those removals can take up to two hours and are charged at $50 per hour. Coming in on schedule keeps removal free and easy.
Can I color my hair with fusion extensions?
Yes. Color does not affect quality keratin bonds.
Tape-in wefts, before application. Thin, flat and lightweight.
Tape-Ins method
- Install time
- 30 – 60 min
- Lasts
- Up to 2 months
- Removal
- Re-taped at maintenance
Tape-in extensions are exactly what they sound like. Pre-taped wefts of hair are sandwiched on either side of a thin section of your natural hair, with no tools, beads, clips or keratin. Applied correctly they cause no damage and the result is seamless.
Tape-ins are semi-permanent and last up to two months before maintenance. At your maintenance visit the wefts are removed, washed and re-taped. If the hair quality is good you can reuse them again and again, up to four times.
Application takes 30 to 60 minutes, and a full head needs 40 to 60 wefts. This method isn’t right for everyone, so we’ll discuss whether it suits your hair and routine at your free consultation.
Questions about tape-ins extensions
How do I care for tape-in extensions?
Keep oily products and heavy conditioner away from the tape itself. Wash and style as normal otherwise, and come in for maintenance around the two-month mark.
Can I style tape-ins with heat?
Yes. Flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers are all fine. Avoid touching the tape area with any heated tool.
Are tape-ins good for fine hair?
They can be. The wefts are lightweight and lie flat, which suits finer hair well, but density and lifestyle matter. We’ll decide together at your consultation.
A hand tied weft sewn onto its micro bead track.
Hand Tied method
- Install time
- 1.5 – 2 hrs
- Lasts
- 4 – 6 weeks
- Removal
- Quick and gentle
Hand tied extensions are long weft tracks of hair attached to a row of micro beads placed side by side with very small gaps between them. The beads are clamped flat with pliers and the weft is sewn onto the track. Unlike a traditional braided weave, where a cornrow is made from your own hair and the weft is sewn onto it, there are no braids and no tension on your scalp.
The method is very kind to your natural hair, though it isn’t suited to every hair type. It does limit the movement of your hair a little, and ponytails are more difficult, but it’s a wonderful way to thicken your hair quickly.
A full head takes 1.5 to 2 hours and can be worn 4 to 6 weeks, depending on how quickly the wefts grow away from your scalp.
Caring for hand tied extensions is just like caring for your own hair. You don’t have to worry about shampoo, conditioner or argan oil affecting the attachment.
Questions about hand tied extensions
Is hand tied the same as a weave?
No. A weave uses a cornrow braid of your own hair as the base, which can pull on the scalp. Hand tied wefts are sewn onto a flat row of micro beads instead, with no braiding.
Can I wear my hair up?
Low and loose styles are fine. High, tight ponytails are harder with wefts because the track can show. If you live in a ponytail, I may suggest a strand-by-strand method instead.
How often do I come in?
Every 4 to 6 weeks, to move the wefts back up to the scalp.
Not sure which method is yours?
That’s what the consultation is for. I’ll look at your hair and your routine and tell you honestly what will work, and what won’t.